Page published 5 June 2024
Sunday 12 May 2024 - Day One
For some time Diana had been beginning to talk of the need to top up our water tank. The last time it was filled was the day we ran out of fuel during our First Sleepover Cruise back in October.
Yesterday's Spring Clean, which included repeatedly serving me with buckets full of water, cemented the idea in her mind. Not only that, she had decided that we shouldn't let the fuel tank get to the point where we ran out of Fuel again. I protested that the dipstick proved the tank was still half full, so she switched to justifying the proposal on the grounds of spreading the costs of running the boat.
The decision was made. We'd learnt yesterday, from our neighbour, that their Safari MkII could get under Wroxham Bridge, so we knew that we would be able to too. The plan was to go at least as far as Horning and attempt to get both water and a pump-out at Southgate's yard.
It was round about 15:20 on Sunday afternoon before we had sorted out things at home, packed what we needed, got to Coltishall, loaded the boat and cast off.
While I moan about the trees close to our mooring, perhaps I shouldn't. Round the corner from ours some moor againstquay heading that is past its prime bowed, which makes getting aboard more of a jump.
Less than two minutes after departure we were passing the work boat undertaking the dredging work on the Upper Bure. It was six minutes downstream when we were out with our granddaughter a month ago.
We're a couple of bends further down the river when we encounter the largest group of canoes we've encountered this year..
By 15:32 we've reached the next major landmark, the village staithe at Belaugh. There are two more canoeists here.
The number of boats at the boatyard have reduced since Easter, although the unusual, and well-kept looking, green one remains.
More noticeable as you with the sun ahead of you is the line of pussy willow in the river. It seems to accumulate in a band and looks as if it may be following the main channel rather than being blown by the wind.
The workboats at Little Switzerland come into view at 15:45..
Wroxham
Although now running parallel with the main road through Wroxham, you can see nothing of the village. Only the locals seem to know of Caen Meadow. You can tell they think it is summer when you see the river full of swimmers. We haven't seen that since 1 September last year, on our Shakedown Cruise, when we brought Singing the Blues to her first mooring at Coltishall.
It's only when you pass under the Hoveton Viaduct moorings that you become aware of the busy centre of the village. Ahead to starboard Ra the solar powered trip boat is still on her "out of service" mooring.
As we pass the Broads Authority's Hoveton St.John moorings it seems that most of the day boats normally available from the station ahead are out on hire.
It was 16:25 as we passed under Wroxham Bridge. I was taken up with aligning the boat to pass through it so missed taking a photo. The height gauge signs showed less than 6ft 6in clearance and I had been keeping my second hand on the throttle, just in case I needed to engage reverse in a hurry.
The unusual appearance of the water immediately ahead of us is the efferct of the wash from the large double deck trip boat that had just turned in front of us to make its way into the basin where it takes on passengers.
With the bridge behind us I'm a little more relaxed and find time to take pictures of some of the riverside dwellings..
The second place I photograph is more likely a main residence or second home as its garden seem particularly well tended. Holiday rental places usually appear a little less well tended.
I had to include one of the more traditional bungalows, most likely built in the 1920s or 1930s.
Passing Two Wherries
Once past the riverside dwellings the river becomes more rural, but not less busy, Wroxham being the main centre for day trippers. It was good to see the wherry yacht Olive on her way back to her mooring at Barton House.
Viewed from the aft you can see her sloping counter stern which tells you she is not a converted trading wherry but built as passenger craft.
Having seen one of the two white hulled wherry yachts it was a surprise to see the other one that managed by the Wherry Yacht Charter Charitable Trust.
We learnt later that one had been on on day charter and the second was returning from a weekend charter. Whoever had booked them had certainly managed to pick a good weekend for their trips.
It was 16:46 as we passed the downstream entrance to Wroxham Broad I reached up through the saloon hatch and pointed the phone n direction of the broad, while I concentrated on steering the boat. This was the result.
The Approach to Horning
By the time we were clear of Wroxham Diana was clear that we were out of water. The taps did provide a splash or two when first turned on but immediately dried up. I got worried that running the pump while the tank was empty might wear out the pump and cause a further expense. It was also clear we were not going to find any of the boat yards open in Horning so it was unlikely that we would be able to pick up water till tomorrow. That led to a debate about exactly where we should go for the night.
Plans Revised
The options seemed to be spending the night close to Horning, return there in the morning to get both water and the pump‑out done and then return home. I had an alternative suggestion. Aim to get to Wayford. We would be able to get water for free while making arrangements with Moonfleet Marine for getting the toilet pump sorted. Having visited the yard on Friday we were told that if they were to do the job they'd replace the entire pump, as although the pump would cost more than a few seals it was a simple speedy job with none of the costs associated with an investigation to see if more was needed than fitting a few seals. We might also be able to get the pump‑out done there too.
Then there was the question of our evening meal. Eventually the decision was made. We'd aim to stp at Ludham Bridge, walk to "The Dog" and have our meal there.
By 17:25 we had reached the outskirts of Horning with the first of the chalets on the left and the Swan Inn just in sight.
Three minutes later we were making the sharp turn by the sailing club. It wasn't until I examined the photographs, days later, that I realised the MkII Safari turning by the Mississippi Riverboat mooring was Blue Tit, our neighbour at Anchor Moorings.
After the turn we proceed along Horning's "street". In the distance the long roof of what I know as Southgate's Yard, but is known by the more modern sounding "Horning Marina Services" these days. It's where we planned to have our pump‑out and top up our water tank when it opened on Monday
On the Broads herons seem to stay put. On the canals, they always seem to fly forward repeatedly as you approach them until, at the limit of their territory they fly back a long way behind you. I guess it's because the rivers are much wider.
Further along, but before reaching the turn shortly before the Ferry Inn and marina, the waterside properties appear to get more up market.
It's just before 17:40 when we pass the Ferry Inn. I am quite surprised to find the moorings outside almost deserted. In the height of the season it becomes packed out.
Once past Ferry Marina and a couple more dwellings, you come to more open country. Unlike the river between Wroxham and Horning, this area is much more open and devoid of trees on the banks of the river. It always surprises me that you still see many yachts proceeding under power.
The Approach to Ludham Bridge
We make the the turn onto the River Ant at 18:15 and six minutes later we are half way to Ludham Bridge when we encounter a group of canoeists. You can't help but notice how calm the river is at this point.
By 18:25 we have reached the moorings south of Ludham Bridge. In the distance the long straight roof line of the Ludham Bridge Boatyard shed can be seen.
There's a couple of feet of headroom as we pass under Ludham Bridge. Through the bridge there is just room for us between the boat moored on the left and the area reserved for yachts to lower the masts.
By 18:40 we are moored and have closed up the boat as we make our way to The Dog, a couple of hundred yards up the road, for our evening meal.
Everyone at the pub seem to be dining outside, so we join them there, and enjoy the Hunter's Chicken we ordered.
As it's name might suggest, it's a dog friendly place at The Dog!. Here I show close-ups of a sign on the wall near a large bin that holds large cushions and another next to a water butt that collects rain water beside a number of bowls, ready to take to your dog.
We're back at the boat by 19:16 to find the boat that had been moored astern of us has moved on. We are by ourselves beside the bridge.
So that was Day One. Neither water nor a pump-out obtained, but we did complete 13.9 miles in 3hrs 13min.
Our hunt for Water and a Pump-Out continues tomorrow.